Pages - Menu

Search This Blog

Showing posts with label alcohol inks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label alcohol inks. Show all posts

Saturday, August 31, 2019

A Simple Fish - Polymer Clay Pendant

A Simple Fish Pendant by Cindi McGee

Materials:

Makin’s Clay® - White 
Makin’s® Clay Cutters - Fish, 4 Piece Circle 
Makin’s® Clay Tools
Makin’s® Texture Sheet Set D - Scales
Alcohol Inks - Lettuce, Sailboat Blue 
Silver mica powder 
Opalized hot fix pearls - CreateAlong.com  
Rubbing Alcohol
Cotton balls
Silver chain, jump ring, closure 
Jewelry pliers
Helmar Crystal Kote - Gloss Varnish


Instructions:

Roll white Makin’s Clay® to about 1/4” thick.  

Apply rubbing alcohol to a cotton ball.  Add 2-3 drops of blue alcohol ink, dab onto clay sheet.  Cover the sheet with the ink.  

Add 2-3 drops of lettuce green ink, lightly dab touches onto the blue - do not completely cover the blue, the goal is to just add a bit of “sea green” effect.  Let ink dry.








Use smallest circle cutter from 4 cutter set and cut circle for base of pendant. 

Use the cotton ball with the alcohol ink to over the sides, and the back of the pendant. 

Make a small hole at the top center for the jump ring. 



Roll a sheet of white clay a little less than 1/4” thick. Place the scales texture sheet over the rolled clay and press to transfer the texture.  Texture sheets can be used on both sides, one side will create an indented texture, the other a raised texture. 

Use largest fish cutter to cut fish.  

Apply silver mica powder to the top and sides of the fish. 

Use a touch of Beacon 527 Adhesive to mount the fish to the “water” disc base. 



Let dry 24 hours. 

Spray with two coats of Hellmar Gloss finish, or use the glossy finish of your choice.  Let dry. 



Add three opalized hot fix pearls to mimic bubbles.  Since the pendant is not being baked, I used the 527 Adhesive to mount them. 

I decided to add a touch of the silver mica powder around the edge of the “water” disc after sealing. 



Add jump ring, chain and closure. 



Friday, June 28, 2019

Miniature Bud Vases



When I go for walks to the park with my children, we collect leaves, flowers and all sorts of things. My children are collectors…A single daisy or an autumn leaf picked along the way can be placed in these bud vases, which I made especially for these natural treasures. 

Materials:

Makin’s Clay®- White, a tiny bit of yellow, and grape leaf
Makin's® Clay Roller or clay machine 
Makin’s Professional® Cutting Mat 
Makin's® Push Molds - Floral Item #39005, Leaves #39001
Makin's® Texture Sheet - Set A - Sand
Makin's® Clay Tool Set - Chisel
Dusting powder like cornstarch
Soft small tip paint brushes
Alcohol Inks (I used different shades of green, blue and a touch of pink/red. Jim Holtz Alcohol Ink)
Lumiere by Jacquard 554 Sunset Gold
3 Approx. 4cm tall x 1.5cm wide glass cylinder (like a Fairy dust bottles) 
Aluminium Foil
Paper Tape


Instructions:
]
Roll out your white clay to the thickest setting on your pasta/clay machine, then wrap the clay tightly around the glass cylinder, making sure there are no air pockets. There is no need to use adhesive to attach the clay to the glass. Ensure the top lip and bottom of the cylinder is covered too. Smooth over by rolling the cylinder along your cutting mat and flatten the base on the cylinder, ensuring the bottle is sitting straight and upright. 

Lightly dust, dusting powder (cornstarch) over the clay bottles. Place the Makin's® Texture Sheet Set A - Sand on top of the clay, using your fingers press and roll over the texture sheet, pressing the impression into the clay. Does not have to be a perfect impression right around, it is to give an organic feel. 

Repeat this process twice to make 2 little bottles and set aside.




To add a different shape to your third cylinder. Add aluminum foil crumpled around the base of the cylinder, adding layers tightly around, until you are happy with the shape of the bottle.

Use paper tape or masking tape to secure the aluminium foil, wrapping it around the bottle, keeping the shape in place.




Use the same technique, previously on the other bottles, to this bottle. Wrap the clay around the cylinder, ensuring the there are no air pockets and that it is secured tightly. Flatten the clay with a damp fingertip, smoothing it down onto the bottle. Flatten the base of the bottle onto the mat to ensure the bottle is steady and not going to tumble. 

I rolled a thin snake of clay and attached it to the top lip of the bottle, I used a little bit of spray of water, to ensure it attached and then smoothed it down, blending it into the other clay.


Again, lightly dust, dusting powder (cornstarch) over the clay bottles. Place the texture sheet on top of the clay, using your fingers press and roll over the texture sheet, pressing the impression into the clay. This does not have to be a perfect impression right around, it is to give an organic feel. 


Set bottles aside to make the daisy and leaf embellishments for the bud vases.

For the bud vases, I used the daisy mold from the Makin's Clay® Clay Push Molds - Floral Item #39005 and the two single leaves from Makin's Clay® Clay Push Molds - Leaves Item #39001

To use the molds lightly dust the push molds with cornstarch, shaking the excess off. This will help to keep the clay from sticking to the mold. For the daisy flower, roll a tiny bit of yellow clay and press it into the centre of the flower mold. Then using the white clay, roll into a smaller size ball than the mold. Press the clay into the mold starting in the centre and working towards the edges. 

Tip - the clear view mold can be turned over and checked if the centre yellow clay is still in position and for any air bubbles that need to be pressed out and to make sure that the areas are all filled. 
Remove excess clay that overlaps the edges of the mold. Remove the moulded daisy flower gently by pressing the mold from the front side or use the clay chisel to help lift the mold out. You clean up the edges using your fingertips and a soft pointed tip sculpting tool. 

Make the leaves using this technique, but use Makin's Clay® - Grape Leaf. 


Attach the daisy flower and Leaves to the base of the bud vases, with a light spray of water or tacky glue (if the bud vases are too dry) onto the base, then press the daisy/leaf into the vase. Using the soft tip sculpting tool light reshape if needed. I used a small balling tool to add texture in the centre of the daisy flower.



Allow to dry for 24 hours.

After the clay has cured, I start the painting process. Using assorted colour alcohol inks, I layered lightest to darkest in the colours. 

For the daisy bud vase, I used Tim Holtz alcohol ink - Cloudy Blue first just drabbing it randomly over the base. Allow the ink to dry before adding the darker colours. The next colour I used was  Sailboat Blue, dabbing it again randomly, but then spritzing it with a little blending alcohol, to soften the colour. Allowing the layer to dry again. The next colour I applied using the same technique was Denim, but added very little of this one, as it was a very strong colour. Again, I spritzed it with a little blending alcohol, to soften the colour. I try to give these vases a watercolour effect on them while painting.

Set aside to dry.

For the leaf bud vases, I used the same technique. The green clover leaf bud vase, I used Citrus, Willow and Bottle. For the autumn style leaf bud vase, I used Citrus, Salmon and Watermelon.






Allow them to dry.
  
To add shimmer and light the bud vases, use Lumiere by Jacquard - 554 Sunset Gold, apply with a damp small tip brush, randomly dabbed over the vase base. Add a little bit of water to your brush each time you get more paint. This gives a shimmer to the paint and vases. 

I also added Lumiere by Jacquard - 554 Sunset Gold to the centre of the daisy and the leaf veins. 
  
Allow to dry, then coat with your favourite polymer clay varnish. 

 

Enjoy creating these cute bud vases!

Tuesday, July 31, 2018

Summer Sunset Necklace

Summer Sunset Necklace by Cindi McGee
The technique used to create this necklace was inspired by a class which polymer clay artist Syndee Holt taught at an event I attended.   Her version is a little bit different than this version, but the biggest difference is that I wanted to try the technique with Makin's Clay®, and I'm very pleased with the results!

Materials: 

Makin’s Clay® - Ivory (or White), Persimmon, Black 
Makin’s Professional® 
  • Ultimate Clay Machine®
  • Professional Clay Tools
  • Cutting Mat
Makin’s® 
  • Clay Roller
  • Round Clay Cutters - 3 pc and 4 pc sets 
Black satin cording 
Judikins™ Diamond Glaze™
Alcohol Inks - Yellow, Butterscotch, Red 
DecoArt® Metallic Lustre™ - Gold Rush 
Rubbing alcohol 
Sponge
Scissors 
Plate/plastic lid to use as palette for alcohol inks

Instructions:

Roll ivory clay starting on setting # 1 and progressing one setting at a time ending on the last setting, #9. 

Roll persimmon clay starting on setting # 1 and progressing one setting at a time ending on the last setting, #9.

Place ivory clay sheet over persimmon clay sheet and roll gently to adhere layers, then trim away remaining persimmon clay and place in zipper bag with a damp paper towel for later use. 



Cut small pieces of sponge.  
Add about 1 tsp of rubbing alcohol onto a plate.  Add a drop of each color of alcohol ink to the plate.  

Dip first sponge in alcohol and then one color of ink, randomly sponge ink onto rolled clay, adding  more ink as needed. 

Repeat with remaining 2 colors of ink. 




Let ink dry, then use fingertip to add small streaks of gold Metallic Lustre randomly over the surface. 
Let dry about 30 minutes.  You want the clay to begin to dry, but not be completely dried.  

Gently tear the sheet into small, uneven sections.  The straw clay will show beneath the ivory layer, it gives almost an “outline” effect. 








Roll black clay to about 1/4” thick. 







Moisten surface of black clay with a little bit of water.   Begin applying the torn pieces, overlapping each other in some places, to cover the black sheet. 




Use clay roller to gently roll until torn pieces are incorporated into black clay and surface is somewhat smooth.

Place plastic over the sheet.  Use 60 mm round cutter to cut disc, then cut two 30 mm, and four 20 mm.  
  

Push scraps together and roll again.   Cut a second set of discs. Place these discs on the back of the first set of discs.  Use a touch of water on your fingertip to smooth the seam on the side where the two discs meet. 



Use clay tool to make two holes in each disc, at opposite sides.  Make holes large enough for either satin cording, or jump rings if you prefer.


Let dry 24 hours. 

Apply Diamond Glaze to front of discs.  Let dry, then apply to back and sides.  

*Note….. I did not decide to glaze my discs until after I had already added the cording…. I recommend glazing before the cording is added.  


Add satin cording.  I use adjustable sliding knot closures, but you prefer, add a metal closure. 









Contact us

Name

Email *

Message *