Adult Coloring with Makin's Clay® - Butterfly Wing

ADULT COLORING WITH MAKIN'S CLAY® by Cynthia Gougian 

It’s October, Pinterest, Instagram and Facebook are filled marvelous Halloween creations!

Unfortunately, here in Georgia, my outdoor thermometer was telling me it was still summer!   My original intent was to design some Halloween dragon fly wings.  But, my muse and the weather took me in another direction.  And, I am so glad that happened!  I stumbled on an adult coloring technique using Makin’s Clay®  and Prismacolor® pencils!  I am just so excited to share it! 

Materials:

·     Makin’s Professional® Ultimate Clay Machine®

·     Makin’s Clay®  15 g in black (1/4 of a 60 gram package)

·     Christi Friesen’s Flutter Wings ©2015 texture sheet, deep texture sheet of your choice.

·     An acrylic roller

·     Prismacolor® colored pencils, or soft colored pencils of your choice

·     Small embroidery scissors

·     A craft knife

·     Cornstarch, or powder

·     Grumbacher® Matte Final Fixative

·     1.5 mm Wire ferrule (Sometimes labeled for 16 AWG wire)

·     4 mm and 6 mm jump rings, or jump rings in sizes of your choice

·     Necklace cord of your choice

Instructions:

Step 1:  I used scissors to cut off about a ¼ block of 60 gram Makin’s® black clay. 

Step 2:  I wrapped the remaining clay in the plastic packaging, then immediately put it in a plastic bag with a wet paper towel.  I removed the excess air from the bag and sealed it tightly.  Makin’s® clay will remain fresh for quite sometime if you store it carefully.

Step 3:  I dusted the mold with some cornstarch.  You can dip a soft artist brush into some cornstarch, then brush it on the mold.  But, I use an old trick from my cake decorating days.  I place a clean, knee -high stocking into another knee-high stocking. I then fill the stockings with corn starch, and knot the top.  This makes a corn starch pounce.   I just pat the mold with the pounce to apply the cornstarch.  It’s less messy!

Step 4:  I rolled the black Makin’s® clay through the thickest setting of the Makin’s Ultimate Clay Machine®.  Then I placed the clay over the mold, and rolled over it with an acrylic roller. 

Step 5:  After rolling, I pressed the clay into the mold with my fingers.  I wanted to make sure I got all the details! 

Step 6:  Once I demolded the wings, I cut of most of the excess clay with embroidery scissors. I didn’t try to cut too close to the wings at this point.  

Step 7:  I stored the excess clay away so that I could use it again. 

Step 8:  I used the 1.5 mm wire ferrule to cut holes at the top of the wings.  Then I let the wings dry for 24 hours. 

Step 9:  Once the clay was thoroughly dry, it was easy to cut out the wings with embroidery scissors. 

Step 10:  Here’s a close up of the wing completely trimmed.  

Step 11:  I used Prismacolor® Apple green to color some of the cells of the wing. I found it was best to use gentle pressure on the pencil. I also found that small circular strokes worked best to obtain full coverage.  Long strokes left the colored areas looking streaky. 

Step 12:  I used Prismacolor® Lilac to color the remaining cells.  

Step 13:  Once the wing was fully colored, I added Prismacolor® Parrot Green to just the inside corner of the green cells. 

Step 14:  Then I added Prismacolor® Violet to just the inside corner of the lilac cells. 

Step 15:  Then, I used a Prismacolor® Colourless Pencil to blend the darker colors into the lighter colors.  If you don’t have a Prismacolor® Colourless pencil, you can use a white pencil, or a very light grey pencil to blend.   

Step 16:  Once or twice, I had slipped with my colored pencils.  I had gotten some color where I wanted the only the black clay to show. But, I was able to touch up the black areas with a Prismacolor® Black pencil.    

Step 17:  When I had finished coloring the wing, I applied two coats of Grumbacher® Matte Final Fixative, allowing the wing to dry thoroughly between coats. 

I was very happy with how well the Prismacolor® Pencils laid down on the Makin’s Clay®! Even though I used black clay, I got great coverage.  Dry Makin’s Clay® has a nice “tooth” (slightly rough texture). This makes it easy to add layers of beautiful color with the Prismacolor® Pencils.  I am looking forward to exploring this technique further and sharing more adult coloring projects!

When the fixative was dry, I used a jump ring to attach the wing to a necklace cord. 

Floral Heart Pendant

Design Team Member Nancy Nickel recently shared this pretty pendant made with Makin's Clay®.

A Simple Fish - Polymer Clay Pendant

A Simple Fish Pendant by Cindi McGee

Materials:

Makin’s Clay® - White 

Makin’s® Clay Cutters - Fish, 4 Piece Circle 

Makin’s® Clay Tools
Makin’s® Texture Sheet Set D - Scales

Alcohol Inks - Lettuce, Sailboat Blue 

Silver mica powder 

Opalized hot fix pearls - CreateAlong.com  

Rubbing Alcohol
Cotton balls

Silver chain, jump ring, closure 

Beacon 527 Adhesive™

Jewelry pliers

Helmar Crystal Kote - Gloss Varnish

Instructions:

Roll white Makin’s Clay® to about 1/4” thick.  

Apply rubbing alcohol to a cotton ball.  Add 2-3 drops of blue alcohol ink, dab onto clay sheet.  Cover the sheet with the ink.  

Add 2-3 drops of lettuce green ink, lightly dab touches onto the blue - do not completely cover the blue, the goal is to just add a bit of “sea green” effect.  Let ink dry.

Use smallest circle cutter from 4 cutter set and cut circle for base of pendant. 

Use the cotton ball with the alcohol ink to over the sides, and the back of the pendant. 

Make a small hole at the top center for the jump ring. 

Roll a sheet of white clay a little less than 1/4” thick. Place the scales texture sheet over the rolled clay and press to transfer the texture.  Texture sheets can be used on both sides, one side will create an indented texture, the other a raised texture. 

Use largest fish cutter to cut fish.  

Apply silver mica powder to the top and sides of the fish. 

Use a touch of Beacon 527 Adhesive to mount the fish to the “water” disc base. 

Let dry 24 hours. 

Spray with two coats of Hellmar Gloss finish, or use the glossy finish of your choice.  Let dry. 

Add three opalized hot fix pearls to mimic bubbles.  Since the pendant is not being baked, I used the 527 Adhesive to mount them. 

I decided to add a touch of the silver mica powder around the edge of the “water” disc after sealing. 

Add jump ring, chain and closure. 

Silkscreened Summer Polymer Clay Pendant

Silkscreened Summer Pendant by Leila Bidler

Using silkscreens you can make a very quick and very eye catching pendant for this summer in no time!

For this project you will need:

Makins's Clay® Earth Tones Colors Package (I used the colors Olive and Straw)

Makin's® Clay Roller

Cookie Cutters (Makin's® Clay Cutters are great for this project)

Makin’s Professional® Cutting Mat

Makin's® Clay Tool Set

1 Jump Ring

Silk Screens (I used one of my own and MOIKO brand)

Squeegee (you can use an old credit card if you have none)

Acrylic colors of your choice (I used Lumiere Metallic Grape, Halo Blue Gold, True Gold, White)

Pearl Ex gold pigment powder

Necklace cord

Extra for the silk screen: a bowl of water

Instructions:

Take your two colors of Makins's Clay® out of the package and mix it with a small amount of gold pigment powder. Start with a small quantity, remember you can always add more if you think you need more, but not take it out if you did add too much! Mix both colors individually with the gold pigment powder to get it nice and sparkly.

When you are satisfied of the mix roll out the clay with the clay roller.

Now take your silkscreen and place it shiny side downon your clay. Be careful to place the correct side up and read the manufacturers instructions. Rub very slightly with your finger to make sure id adheres well to the clay. Also prepare a small bowl or dish of water to rinse your silk screen right after using it. 

There are several different approaches to doing silk screen, I like to add the color directly to the border of the squeegee (if you do not have one a rubber or silicone texture sheet or old credit card work well also). As shown here, if you want some color variations you can add two different colors: 

Now pull the squeegee and the color across the screen, from top to bottom. Go firmly in one motion but do not push too hard to not indent the clay underneath. As you can see the colors mix nicely on the screen:

This is the result on the Olive Green Clay - after using your silk screen put it immediately in your bowl of water so the paint will not dry and cloak the mesh before you get a chance to properly wash it. 

Choose a different pattern for the second piece of clay and proceed with a first print, using a dark color:

Let's add a special effect: le the color dry, wash and dry your silk screen, place it exactly on top of the previous print, then move it very, very slightly and print again using a light color. This way we will create the illusion of a shadow image on the clay: 

 

Cut out two shapes you like and place one on top of the other, putting a drop of water between them to help the clay stick together to create your pendant. You can put it on a slightly curved surface to let it dry in a curved shape to add more interest.

Have fun experimenting with different shapes of silk screens and different colors, layering them in different ways to get very interesting designs, here another example using different colors and silk screens. 

Poke a hole in your pendant before it dries. Let your pendant dry and then add a jump ring and string it and it is ready to be worn. Optional: you can add clear varnish or resin on top of the pendant but you do not really need it as the acrylic colors will not rub easily.

Go to the beach and have fun!